4. Kepler Track

The location of the Kepler Track (map from NZ Department of Conservation).

2009-02-21T15:55:57Z

andrewg
The location of the Kepler Track (map from NZ Department of Conservation).

The location of the Kepler Track (map from NZ Department of Conservation).

2009-06-05T11:44:58Z

andrewg
The location of the Kepler Track (map from NZ Department of Conservation).

A general topo map of the Kepler Track. I hiked counter-clockwise, from the point marked "Enter/Exit" near the control gates near the right-center of the image to the point marked "Enter/Ex ...

2009-07-21T16:25:58Z

andrewg
A general topo map of the Kepler Track. I hiked counter-clockwise, from the point marked "Enter/Exit" near the control gates near the right-center of the image to the point marked "Enter/Ex ...

A general elevation map of the Kepler Track. On this map, I walked from left to right. Note the steep ascent on the first day, and the morning of the second (map from NZ Department of Co ...

2009-07-21T13:22:58Z

andrewg
A general elevation map of the Kepler Track. On this map, I walked from left to right. Note the steep ascent on the first day, and the morning of the second (map from NZ Department of Co ...

Packing for the Kepler Track, all smushed together.

2009-06-05T12:21:53Z

andrewg
Packing for the Kepler Track, all smushed together.

Packing for the Kepler Track (minus food). There are a couple of important additions since the Routeburn Track: a pair of hiking poles, sweat-wicking underwear, and a water bladder. The bl ...

2009-02-21T16:01:15Z

andrewg
Packing for the Kepler Track (minus food). There are a couple of important additions since the Routeburn Track: a pair of hiking poles, sweat-wicking underwear, and a water bladder. The bl ...

Starting point for the Kepler Track: the Te Anau office of the DoC.

2009-07-07T14:48:50Z

andrewg
Starting point for the Kepler Track: the Te Anau office of the DoC.

The Te Anau control gates. The track crosses over the control structure. In this image, I walked from the right side to the left.

2009-07-21T14:37:17Z

andrewg
The Te Anau control gates. The track crosses over the control structure. In this image, I walked from the right side to the left.

Lake Te Anau from the Kepler Track.

2009-07-21T13:42:30Z

andrewg
Lake Te Anau from the Kepler Track.

The Kepler Track starts off in pleasant forest along Lake Te Anau. The gentle walk is a bit of a tease, since you know there's a big climb in your near future!

2009-06-05T19:39:43Z

andrewg
The Kepler Track starts off in pleasant forest along Lake Te Anau. The gentle walk is a bit of a tease, since you know there's a big climb in your near future!

A helpful DoC sign. Luxmore Hut was where I'd spend my first night. Rather than distances, objectives are measured in the time it takes to get there. I've decided that these times are bas ...

2009-02-21T15:55:42Z

andrewg
A helpful DoC sign. Luxmore Hut was where I'd spend my first night. Rather than distances, objectives are measured in the time it takes to get there. I've decided that these times are bas ...

The Kepler Cafe! A beautiful clearing perfect for lunch and meeting fellow hikers. I was happy to join the gathering group. From the left: Chris, Julia, Charles, and Tifin.

2009-07-21T14:13:10Z

andrewg
The Kepler Cafe! A beautiful clearing perfect for lunch and meeting fellow hikers. I was happy to join the gathering group. From the left: Chris, Julia, Charles, and Tifin.

Andrew on the track, feeling great. Notice the little blue tube visible over my left shoulder (right side of the image). That's the hose from the water bladder in my pack. Oh, wonderful h ...

2009-07-21T14:01:04Z

andrewg
Andrew on the track, feeling great. Notice the little blue tube visible over my left shoulder (right side of the image). That's the hose from the water bladder in my pack. Oh, wonderful h ...

Andrew on the track, hands on poles, feeling happy as a man can be.

2009-07-21T13:48:13Z

andrewg
Andrew on the track, hands on poles, feeling happy as a man can be.

Lake Te Anau. The track started right at lake level, so this was after some climbing.

2009-07-21T12:55:53Z

andrewg
Lake Te Anau. The track started right at lake level, so this was after some climbing.

Chris and Julia emerge! After a seemingly endless and steep ascent through the rain forest, the track suddenly passes the bush line and in within a few steps you're rewarded with amazing vi ...

2009-07-21T13:13:13Z

andrewg
Chris and Julia emerge! After a seemingly endless and steep ascent through the rain forest, the track suddenly passes the bush line and in within a few steps you're rewarded with amazing vi ...

Charles and Tifin emerge from the endless rain forest ascent and into the glorious sunshine and alpine views.

2009-07-21T13:58:06Z

andrewg
Charles and Tifin emerge from the endless rain forest ascent and into the glorious sunshine and alpine views.

Tifin and Charles hiking above the bush line.

2009-07-21T13:22:54Z

andrewg
Tifin and Charles hiking above the bush line.

Looking down on Te Anau from the track.

2009-06-05T11:30:11Z

andrewg
Looking down on Te Anau from the track.

Luxmore Hut, a very welcome sight after a long hard uphill slog through the forest.

2009-07-21T14:13:09Z

andrewg
Luxmore Hut, a very welcome sight after a long hard uphill slog through the forest.

The view around Luxmore Hut.

2009-07-21T12:42:38Z

andrewg
The view around Luxmore Hut.

Dropping my gear and grabbing a bunk (in the lower-right) at Luxmore Hut.

2009-07-21T12:47:45Z

andrewg
Dropping my gear and grabbing a bunk (in the lower-right) at Luxmore Hut.

In the huts, most people sleep in their sleeping bags side-by-side with other hikers on these long rows of foam mattresses. When you reach the hut, you pick a spot and unroll your sleeping ...

2009-06-05T12:09:20Z

andrewg
In the huts, most people sleep in their sleeping bags side-by-side with other hikers on these long rows of foam mattresses. When you reach the hut, you pick a spot and unroll your sleeping ...

People eating dinner at Luxmore Hut.

2009-07-21T12:49:37Z

andrewg
People eating dinner at Luxmore Hut.

The hut wardens advise hikers of conditions and rules on whiteboards; this is at Luxmore Hut. Note that Theresa spells Loxmoore with two o's. The choice of whether to use one or two o's se ...

2009-02-21T16:01:21Z

andrewg
The hut wardens advise hikers of conditions and rules on whiteboards; this is at Luxmore Hut. Note that Theresa spells Loxmoore with two o's. The choice of whether to use one or two o's se ...

Next to the front door at Luxmore Hut.

2009-07-21T13:17:15Z

andrewg
Next to the front door at Luxmore Hut.

The view of the patio and the mountains from the front door.

2009-07-21T14:02:02Z

andrewg
The view of the patio and the mountains from the front door.

Morning from the Luxmore Hut. A bit of cloud cover way down low. Yesterday morning I'd started at Lake Te Anau, now visible way down there below the clouds.

2009-07-21T14:21:21Z

andrewg
Morning from the Luxmore Hut. A bit of cloud cover way down low. Yesterday morning I'd started at Lake Te Anau, now visible way down there below the clouds.

Theresa, the smiling, friendly, funny, perfectly terrific hut warden at Luxmore Hut. Hut wardens are paid almost nothing: they're essentially volunteers, taking care of the huts, advising t ...

2009-06-05T12:19:24Z

andrewg
Theresa, the smiling, friendly, funny, perfectly terrific hut warden at Luxmore Hut. Hut wardens are paid almost nothing: they're essentially volunteers, taking care of the huts, advising t ...

The trail out of Luxmore Hut, my second morning. It looks pretty clear, but that was soon to change.

2009-07-21T14:40:51Z

andrewg
The trail out of Luxmore Hut, my second morning. It looks pretty clear, but that was soon to change.

Clouds a-coming on the track coming out of Luxmore Hut in the morning.

2009-07-21T13:17:59Z

andrewg
Clouds a-coming on the track coming out of Luxmore Hut in the morning.

The track out of Luxmore Hut is above the bushline, passing through rock and low scrub.

2009-07-21T15:29:29Z

andrewg
The track out of Luxmore Hut is above the bushline, passing through rock and low scrub.

Approaching Mt. Luxmore itself, clouds started rolling in as though they were late to a fabulous party. What had been clear skies only minutes before was now becoming white.

2009-07-21T15:39:32Z

andrewg
Approaching Mt. Luxmore itself, clouds started rolling in as though they were late to a fabulous party. What had been clear skies only minutes before was now becoming white.

A pass below the trail that had been pretty and sunny only a minute or two before I shot this image. When I arrived at Mt. Luxmore itself just a couple of minutes later, I wanted to take th ...

2009-07-21T12:41:11Z

andrewg
A pass below the trail that had been pretty and sunny only a minute or two before I shot this image. When I arrived at Mt. Luxmore itself just a couple of minutes later, I wanted to take th ...

The Forest Burn Shelter is an emergency refuge when the whether turns dangerous. By the time I reached it the clouds had continued to rise, so it was now mostly clear at our altitude and be ...

2009-06-05T11:50:23Z

andrewg
The Forest Burn Shelter is an emergency refuge when the whether turns dangerous. By the time I reached it the clouds had continued to rise, so it was now mostly clear at our altitude and be ...

Andrew and fellow hikers at the Forest Burn Shelter. I'm wearing my bright-blue fleece jacket for warmth (thanks, Cindy!).

2009-06-05T14:34:41Z

andrewg
Andrew and fellow hikers at the Forest Burn Shelter. I'm wearing my bright-blue fleece jacket for warmth (thanks, Cindy!).

After the Forest Burn Shelter the track skirts along the side of a mountain, and then goes directly over the top-center of a long ridge, exactly as you might imagine a glorious, well-designe ...

2009-07-07T14:38:53Z

andrewg
After the Forest Burn Shelter the track skirts along the side of a mountain, and then goes directly over the top-center of a long ridge, exactly as you might imagine a glorious, well-designe ...

Looking forward at the track going over the ridge. This is track heaven.

2009-07-21T13:46:31Z

andrewg
Looking forward at the track going over the ridge. This is track heaven.

The ideal fantasy track continues along the ridge.

2009-07-21T12:49:04Z

andrewg
The ideal fantasy track continues along the ridge.

A 360-degree view from the ridge. On both sides of us were deep valleys. A river was at the bottom of one valley, the South Fiord on the other. The air was crisp and clean like the air in ...

2009-06-05T12:18:24Z

andrewg
A 360-degree view from the ridge. On both sides of us were deep valleys. A river was at the bottom of one valley, the South Fiord on the other. The air was crisp and clean like the air in ...

Valerie and John living it up at the Hanging Valley Shelter.

2009-06-05T11:43:49Z

andrewg
Valerie and John living it up at the Hanging Valley Shelter.

Akel at the Hanging Valley Shelter.

2009-06-05T19:41:38Z

andrewg
Akel at the Hanging Valley Shelter.

Julia and Chris at the Hanging Valley Shelter.

2009-07-21T14:56:36Z

andrewg
Julia and Chris at the Hanging Valley Shelter.

Little flowers grow everywhere.

2009-07-21T14:35:29Z

andrewg
Little flowers grow everywhere.

A view from just past the Hanging Valley Shelter, on the last part of the ridge. You can just make out the shelter as a dark box near the far left.

2009-06-05T11:41:01Z

andrewg
A view from just past the Hanging Valley Shelter, on the last part of the ridge. You can just make out the shelter as a dark box near the far left.

The descent from the ridge came in two phases. The first was a drop so steep that DoC built this very long series of steps, rather than carve tons of switchbacks into the mountainside.

2009-07-21T13:19:26Z

andrewg
The descent from the ridge came in two phases. The first was a drop so steep that DoC built this very long series of steps, rather than carve tons of switchbacks into the mountainside.

Turpentine plant. This contains turpentine (or something close to it) and will burn whether it's wet or dry, hot or cold. Every nature trail and hut warden likes to point this out, because ...

2009-06-05T11:37:56Z

andrewg
Turpentine plant. This contains turpentine (or something close to it) and will burn whether it's wet or dry, hot or cold. Every nature trail and hut warden likes to point this out, because ...

A look at the top of a turpentine plant.

2009-07-21T13:25:34Z

andrewg
A look at the top of a turpentine plant.

Another view of the giant steps to/from the Hanging Valley Shelter.

2009-07-21T14:18:17Z

andrewg
Another view of the giant steps to/from the Hanging Valley Shelter.

A first look at the second part of the descent. The long, steep drop begins here, then crosses the bush line and into the forest, where it switchbacks over and over dropping rapidly towards ...

2009-07-07T14:39:25Z

andrewg
A first look at the second part of the descent. The long, steep drop begins here, then crosses the bush line and into the forest, where it switchbacks over and over dropping rapidly towards ...

Andrew feeling good on the trail.

2009-07-21T14:06:43Z

andrewg
Andrew feeling good on the trail.

In the forest just after the bush line, where the trees are still stunted and struggling.

2009-07-21T13:02:04Z

andrewg
In the forest just after the bush line, where the trees are still stunted and struggling.

The track descending, just after the bush line. Yup, that's mud. Slippery, sloshy, slow-footing icky slippy mud. Particularly nasty when you're descending steeply. Thank you, hiking pole ...

2009-07-21T13:25:21Z

andrewg
The track descending, just after the bush line. Yup, that's mud. Slippery, sloshy, slow-footing icky slippy mud. Particularly nasty when you're descending steeply. Thank you, hiking pole ...

One of the more mellow of the many, many switchbacks (or "zips") on the descent from the alpine section.

2009-07-21T14:22:03Z

andrewg
One of the more mellow of the many, many switchbacks (or "zips") on the descent from the alpine section.

The weather report at the Iris Burn Hut.

2009-07-21T13:54:52Z

andrewg
The weather report at the Iris Burn Hut.

A plaque at the Iris Burn Hut. The Kepler Track is the newest of New Zealand's "Great Walks."

2009-07-21T14:06:32Z

andrewg
A plaque at the Iris Burn Hut. The Kepler Track is the newest of New Zealand's "Great Walks."

A plaque at the Iris Burn Hut. The Kepler Track was created in the 1980's when the Milford and Routeburn Tracks were in danger of getting overused and thus compromised. The DoC designed th ...

2009-07-21T13:21:44Z

andrewg
A plaque at the Iris Burn Hut. The Kepler Track was created in the 1980's when the Milford and Routeburn Tracks were in danger of getting overused and thus compromised. The DoC designed th ...

Getting an early start on dinner at the Iris Burn Hut.

2009-07-21T14:07:27Z

andrewg
Getting an early start on dinner at the Iris Burn Hut.

The upper bunkroom at the Iris Burn Hut. On this side of the room there's the standard long row of side-by-side mattresses. By the time evening came, every one was taken.

2009-07-21T14:01:39Z

andrewg
The upper bunkroom at the Iris Burn Hut. On this side of the room there's the standard long row of side-by-side mattresses. By the time evening came, every one was taken.

The Iris Burn Hut also had a bunch of bunk beds that slept a single person each above and below - what luxury!These bunks face the long row in the previous photo.

2009-02-21T16:00:33Z

andrewg
The Iris Burn Hut also had a bunch of bunk beds that slept a single person each above and below - what luxury!These bunks face the long row in the previous photo.

My bunk at the Iris Burn Hut. I got there early and grabbed an end spot. This is in a long row in the downstairs bunkroom.

2009-07-21T15:13:45Z

andrewg
My bunk at the Iris Burn Hut. I got there early and grabbed an end spot. This is in a long row in the downstairs bunkroom.

Julia and Chris at the Iris Burn Hut.

2009-07-21T13:35:37Z

andrewg
Julia and Chris at the Iris Burn Hut.

The Iris Burn Gang after the night's hut meeting. Every night, the hut warden holds a meeting and collects hut tickets. The meetings range from quick explanations of firedrill procedure to ...

2009-07-21T12:36:16Z

andrewg
The Iris Burn Gang after the night's hut meeting. Every night, the hut warden holds a meeting and collects hut tickets. The meetings range from quick explanations of firedrill procedure to ...

The trail coming out of the Iris Burn Hut on the morning of my third day.

2009-07-21T13:02:26Z

andrewg
The trail coming out of the Iris Burn Hut on the morning of my third day.

The trail out of Iris Burn Hut.

2009-06-05T14:03:57Z

andrewg
The trail out of Iris Burn Hut.

Rain! Now protected by a pack cover, my pack contemplates the amazingly well-formed track and the fern forest around it.

2009-06-05T19:45:11Z

andrewg
Rain! Now protected by a pack cover, my pack contemplates the amazingly well-formed track and the fern forest around it.

The rain forest during rain.

2009-07-21T13:14:45Z

andrewg
The rain forest during rain.

The track continues on through the rain forest, whether it's sunny or, as it is now, raining.

2009-07-21T14:13:37Z

andrewg
The track continues on through the rain forest, whether it's sunny or, as it is now, raining.

I don't know what happens to the track after this point, but from what I could see, there's a whole lot of debris that washed down from above.

2009-06-05T12:08:00Z

andrewg
I don't know what happens to the track after this point, but from what I could see, there's a whole lot of debris that washed down from above.

The track detours around the closed section by ascending steeply over dense roots, and then descending equally steeply. It was wet and very slippery. Hooray for poles!

2009-06-05T12:07:33Z

andrewg
The track detours around the closed section by ascending steeply over dense roots, and then descending equally steeply. It was wet and very slippery. Hooray for poles!

Another wet, wet fern forest.

2009-06-05T19:58:00Z

andrewg
Another wet, wet fern forest.

You can't have a rain forest this pretty without rain, and lots of it, so though a clear day is more than welcome, I didn't mind the rain.

2009-06-05T12:11:55Z

andrewg
You can't have a rain forest this pretty without rain, and lots of it, so though a clear day is more than welcome, I didn't mind the rain.

Every hut has a visitor's log. In the summer, it's optional, because there are enough people on the track that it's unlikely you're going to hurt yourself and not be detected. In the winte ...

2009-06-05T11:38:54Z

andrewg
Every hut has a visitor's log. In the summer, it's optional, because there are enough people on the track that it's unlikely you're going to hurt yourself and not be detected. In the winte ...

The Moturao Hut. I was going to stay here my third night, but I had gotten a really early start that day, and reached the hut by mid-day. I realized that if I moved, I could reach the endp ...

2009-06-05T12:16:26Z

andrewg
The Moturao Hut. I was going to stay here my third night, but I had gotten a really early start that day, and reached the hut by mid-day. I realized that if I moved, I could reach the endp ...

More moss. Everywhere there's moss. Beautiful, colorful, stringy moss.

2009-07-21T14:37:01Z

andrewg
More moss. Everywhere there's moss. Beautiful, colorful, stringy moss.

A boardwalk winds from the main track to a spur trail looking out onto a big broad bog.

2009-06-05T12:02:46Z

andrewg
A boardwalk winds from the main track to a spur trail looking out onto a big broad bog.

Near the end of the Kepler Track you cross over several swingbridges. They're a lot of fun, sort of like a little treat.

2009-06-05T13:40:13Z

andrewg
Near the end of the Kepler Track you cross over several swingbridges. They're a lot of fun, sort of like a little treat.

A sandbar in the Walau River. The river was flowing pretty well at this point, after the rain of the previous night and most of today, though the rain had stopped by now.

2009-06-05T12:02:55Z

andrewg
A sandbar in the Walau River. The river was flowing pretty well at this point, after the rain of the previous night and most of today, though the rain had stopped by now.

Happy Endings! Andrew at the end of the Kepler Track.

2009-06-05T13:50:39Z

andrewg
Happy Endings! Andrew at the end of the Kepler Track.